Monday, September 30, 2013

The Last Train to Zona Verde

by Paul Theroux



One's idea of a country, a people, and most importantly a culture differ from reality. There is no substitute for actually going there and being there — even with the advent of the Internet which Paul Theroux points out. As much as I would like to go to Africa, with all the hardship and danger involved, I'll go with second-best, that is reading a first-hand account of an accomplished writer as he journeys through the Dark Continent.

Theroux starts out in Cape Town, South Africa at the continent's southern tip. He is not content to see the typical tourist sights. As always, he delves into what it means to be the average citizen of a nation. He takes the reader through the townships of Cape Town and describes how people live there. He is bold, and asks questions that people don't always like to answer but prove essential in understanding what makes them tick, what makes their country tick.

He then moves up the Atlantic Coast of Africa, weaving his way through Namibia where he is introduced to the Bushmen and then into the no man's land of Angola, which, he reports has no wild game animals anymore. He even teaches students in southern Angola, something he had done initially in Nyasaland, now Malawi, when he was only 22. I cannot stress how brave Paul Theroux is in taking this trip. Did I mention that at the time of the writing, he was age 70? How he could endure the fatigue of traveling overland in crowded buses on torturous roads and sometimes not eating all day I do not understand. Yet he did it. He pulled it off. It was his farewell to Africa trip.

Whenever I read a book by Paul Theroux, I not only learn about the world in which we live, I learned about myself. You see, Mr. Theroux expresses many opinions, some of which I wholeheartedly agree with and others I strongly disagree with. Sometimes the most enlightening opinions are the ones I disagree with. You see, he does not write them in such a way that he is offending the reader, at least not me. He leaves room for people to disagree with whatever they want to. For example, he mentioned that he hates going to any kind of zoo or viewing wild animals that are kept on farms, such as an elephant park in Botswana. My reply to that is that as long as the animals are well cared for and their people who benefit from and enjoy watching them, then what's the problem? In disagreeing, I strengthen my own position.

One thing I've noticed about Paul Theroux is that he doesn't exactly "go native" when he visits the countries he writes about, but he doesn't act like any American I know. It's like his "first worldness" has rubbed off and we are able to view a person who is a citizen of the world, and far beyond the sense of the cliché. He has a knack for mixing and matching cultures and attitudes and can thus get along with the people he meets on the road, a skill as valuable and laudable as any other. It doesn't matter if it's a bureaucrat, a slum dweller or someone hawking something on the road. He blends in; he takes up little space.

This is not Paul Theroux's best travel book. He harbors a great deal of disappointment. He is disappointed in the state of modern Africa with its countless cities with slums with uneducated, hopeless people. He is disappointed in the politics and terrorism and violence that keep him from traveling as far afield as he had planned. If you choose to read it, be patient. If you are, you will be rewarded by nuggets of knowledge and experience that you can either apply toward your own journey to Africa or general knowledge that will stand you in good stead.
Available at Amazon.com.

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